Pragmatic Ski Tuning - Overview by Mark Alder

It seems that every skier and ski technician has a unique approach to ski tuning. Ask 10 tuners how to tune a ski and you'll probably get 10 different answers… some more practical than others.

Some techniques are supported by science, some are based on personal preference and available tools and some are focused on profitability. Tuning protocols often are the way they are simply “because this is the way we’ve always done it.”

The purpose of this series of articles is to provide an approach for the home ski tech to develop and refine a personal best method of tuning skis for optimum performance.

We start with some general observations:

• Some skiers don’t care if a ski is tuned and waxed at all and the tuning protocol may be as simple as replacing skis every few years.
• If you hot wax at all, you are in a minority of only 10% of all skiers.
• A sub-optimally waxed and tuned ski will still outperform a dry ski. A carefully maintained ski will last longer and perform better. There is, however, a point of diminishing rewards. We are simply not all elite level athletes and our ability may not justify an elite level of tuning.
• Each time you tune and wax, your tuning skills will improve. Using the same protocol on both skis every time makes tuning consistent.
• Buying cheap tools is often the least economical option. Buying a good tool initially is much less expensive than later replacing a poor tool with a good one. The most expensive option is damaging ski equipment with inadequate tools or skills.
• Some tasks are best left to a full service shop. We must decide how much time and expense we are willing to commit and when to defer to the shop.
• The best system uses a few basic tools, is quick and uses inexpensive materials. Ask yourself: “Can I do this quicker than driving to the shop?”
• Focus on the goal: a ski consistently and accurately tuned with a flat base, smooth edges, bevels at appropriate angles and waxed for the prevailing snow conditions. You won’t always have everything perfect, but 95% is consistently achievable….and this isn’t the Olympics!

To maximize “bang for the buck”, it usually is best to begin with the tasks that are performed most frequently and have the greatest impact on skiing. Maintenance tasks are easier and less expensive than repairs. Less frequent tasks, or those requiring more equipment, can be added according to interest, time and skill. Most of us will want to acquire skills and purchase tools in the order presented below. You may stop at any point in the sequence and defer to a full service shop.

All tuning tasks require three essential tools: a solid bench, brake retainers and a sturdy ski vise. Purchase them first!

Routine Maintenance Tasks

Cleaning

The most important tool may be a rag or paper towel to clean and dry skis. Hanging skis vertically allows them to dry quickly and moisture to drip off. Simply wiping skis off prevents edge rust and removes the grime that accumulates from travel on a car ski rack. Brush ski bases clean with a brass brush before beginning tuning.

Tools
Rag or paper towel, brass brush.

Daily Edge Maintenance

Carving turns on modern shaped skis requires us to use our edges. For our edges to serve well, they need to be sharp and maintained at the correct angles. Even a day or two of skiing can dull or burr the edges of our skis enough to compromise performance. Maintaining edges should be a top priority and is quick and easy. A bevel guide ensures that base and side edge bevels are accurate and consistent.

Tools
Base bevel guide, edge bevel guide, diamond stones, cutting fluid, gummi stone.

Technique
Polish with bevel guides and progressively finer diamond stones until the stone travels quietly along the edges. Spray lubricant on diamond stones to enhance cutting and reduce clogging. Use coarse stone to remove burrs. Use medium and/or fine diamond stones for daily polishing. Use an extra fine stone for race polish. Wipe filings from edges with a paper towel or fiberlene. Clean stones after use with soapy water and a fiber pad. Remove the burr with one pass down each edge with gummi stone held at a 45° angle and very light pressure.

Wax

Wax is the critical element in smooth glide. Wax is also the critical component in cleaning and caring for the ski base. Wax options are numerous; wax is an art and science unto itself. A simple, inexpensive approach is adequate for most non-race situations. Waxing after about 2-5 ski days keeps our skis gliding smoothly and avoids base burn.

Wax can be as simple or complex as you allow it to be. For the purposes of most skiers, a simple hydrocarbon wax system is best and definitely the least expensive. Use a single brand of basic products.

Begin with a soft base-care wax. base-care wax can be hot scraped for cleaning and also applied as a base primer. A base-care wax penetrates the polyethylene base and helps to bind a harder glide wax to the base. This combination will markedly increase the durability of glide wax. base-care wax only needs to be applied after base grinding, when the bases are dirty and need to be hot scraped, or when the bases are dry.

A universal wax (glide wax) is applied over the base-care wax. A universal glide wax may not always be optimal, but will rarely be wrong. More sophisticated wax systems can be added later if you need 5% more speed.

Remember that your base is like a sponge. Wax in the base improves glide; wax on the base will decrease glide. Careful scraping and brushing are key to removing excess wax on the base.

Keeping bases and wax clean is very important. Clean off bench and tools before opening the wax container.

Tools
Fiberlene, wax iron, base-care wax, universal wax, acrylic scraper, nylon brush.

Technique

• Hot Scrape
  Drip base-care wax on ski base. Make one spreading-pass to cover entire ski, followed by 2-3 careful passes with a non-smoking iron. Move the iron at a steady speed that produces a melted wax trail of 3-5 inches. Immediately, while wax is still hot, scrape base to remove debris and clean the base.
• Prime the Base
  Drip base-care wax on ski base. Make one spreading-pass to cover entire ski, followed by 2-3 careful passes with a non-smoking iron. Move the iron at a steady speed that maintains a melted wax trail of about 3-5 inches. Let base wax cool and scrape with an acrylic scraper.
• Hot wax
  Drip glide wax on ski base. Make one spreading-pass to cover entire ski, followed by 2-3 careful passes with a non-smoking iron. Move the iron at a steady speed. Let the base cool until wax is hard enough to scrape (10-15 minutes).
• Scrape Base
  Scrape off excess wax with a sharp acrylic scraper. Work from tip to tail. Clean the side edges with the ends of the acrylic scraper.
• Brush
  Brush all remaining wax out of the base structure with a nylon brush. Work from tip to tail (usually 3-4 passes per ski).
• Clean structure
  Make enough passes with a medium fiber pad (gray) to remove the wax “dandruff”. Work from tip to tail.

This is the first in a five part series of articles on tuning. The other four articles are available on our subscription site: Base Repair, Tools & Resources, Daily Maintenance and Major Tune Up step-by-step protocols.

For the complete series (and all other benefits), we invite you to subscribe here.